The “heartbreak grape” is a moniker reserved for Pinot Noir due to its fickle nature and growing challenges. Having grown and made my share of Pinot Noir, I can certainly understand the label for those unaccustomed to the challenges of growing Zinfandel. Zinfandel, the true “heartbreak grape,” gives even the most experienced growers a run for their money.
Pinot’s “heartbreak” mystique largely comes from the fact that exceptional Pinot Noir comes from a very narrow band of ideal soils and climates. Pinot grown outside of these parameters can be pleasant yet uninspiring. Zinfandel is more adaptable – capable of producing wines of note from a broader range of terroirs. Both varieties share the characteristics of thin skins and tight clusters, which contributes to higher susceptibility to rot. Zinfandel, however, raises the stakes due to a factor that made it a favored choice of growers who planted some of these fields 100+ years ago – its productivity.
Zinfandel’s productivity, a benefit to early immigrants to California looking to eke out a living on small farms, creates a host of other issues. Known for producing medium to large clusters (versus the small hand grenades of Pinot), Zinfandel rarely disappoints in terms of yield. Whereas small Pinot clusters tuck neatly within a canopy, Zinfandel’s larger clusters can easily expose themselves to direct sun damage if not managed carefully with exacting canopy management.
Complicating matters, Zinfandel is known for producing large “shoulders” or “wings.” Much like a limb of a tree, a cluster develops from a central branch with lateral branches springing from this central axis. When the first of these laterals develops into a separate mini-cluster, sometimes comparable to the size of the primary cluster, these are called “shoulders” or “wings.”
Wings pose a two-fold issue for Zinfandel growers. Being secondary, the flow of solutes, primarily sugar and water, do not flow as evenly to the shoulders or wings as they do the primary cluster. This causes delayed ripening in the wing and pushes Zinfandel’s proclivity towards uneven ripening. Further, if allowed to fully develop, the wing only exacerbates issues of “clumping” within the canopy. Already sizeable clusters are further entangled by the expanding berries of the wings, decreasing air flow and increasing chances for rot.
What does all this mean for Zinfandel growers and winemakers and why do I think Zinfandel deserves the title of “heartbreak grape?”
As we approach a new growing season, our vineyard crew will carefully and more frequently manage Zinfandel to Biale’s exacting standards. The cost of not doing so can be the difference between an excellent, a middling, or a “heartbreak” vintage in even the best sites.
Excess growth will be removed from the vines during suckering passes, wings will be removed before berries size up and clusters close, and leafing passes will be carried out carefully, to balance protection from too much sun and allowing air flow. Each of these activities will help the overall health of the crop and tighten the overall ripening profile of each vine.
While the springtime may not have the same allure as the busy harvest season, proper vine management is crucial during this season and critical to the success of the upcoming vintage, ensuring heartbreak doesn’t occur at harvest time.